A silent act of resistance: hidden tattoo studios in Tehran
Mohammed is a tattoo studio hidden in a back room behind a clothing store in a poor, southern part of Tehran. Photos of Al Pacino, Che Guevara and the Eiffel Tower adorn the walls. His clients often ask about classic tattoo motifs - like a rose or a predatory animal - but tribal Maori-style patterns are also popular. "Tattooing is my passion," he says. "I'm taking a risk just because it's so beautiful."
He's taking a risk, of course. Tattoo artists are regularly arrested in Iran and sentenced to fines, eyelashes, or even imprisonment. Although there is no specific law against tattoos and they are not strictly prohibited in Shiite Islam, the authorities strongly reject them as a Western phenomenon harmful to Iranian values.
Some public places, such as swimming pools, have signs warning that tattooed people are not welcome. When criminals are arrested, newspapers invariably publish photos of their body art to convey to people that tattoos and crimes go hand in hand. Football players with tattooed arms were forced to wear long sleeves.
Nevertheless, body art is very popular among young people in Tehran. There are many people with visible tattoos among the customers of trendy cafes in the city center. And everywhere in the city you'll find underground studios like Mohammed. Some of them are located in back rooms behind shops or in beauty salons where women use permanent makeup such as eyeliner, the only form of tattooing that the authorities allow. Others receive their clients at home. They often find it difficult to find good equipment.
Mohammed, who is 27 years old, started 10 years ago with a car that his mother used for permanent makeup. He saw how tattoos became a craze among young urban Iranians about seven years ago. "The Internet was an important factor. People saw it on social media and decided they wanted it too," he says.
"My clients say that tattoos make them feel better. They feel more beautiful and stronger. A person feels stronger when they have a dragon tattoo on their back."
Reza Arjmand, a sociologist at Lund University in Sweden, has conducted extensive research on the new tattoo culture in Iran and collected more than 5,000 photographs. His book "Subversive Skin: Tattooing in Post-Revolutionary Iran" will be published this year.
"Tattoos are not new in Iran," he says. "But before, it was something for the lower classes - men who were in prison and women who were engaged in prostitution. A new trend for young people. It's cool to have one. It's a fashionable item and a status symbol. Between the photos I've collected, there are women who have the exact same tattoo as Beyonce or some other celebrity in the same place."
Tattoos are nothing new in Iran, but if they used to be "something for the lower classes," now young people are doing them.
Tattoos are nothing new in Iran, but if they used to be "something for the lower classes," now young people are doing them. Photograph: Maryam Firouzi / The Guardian
But it's certainly not just a fashion choice for everyone, he adds. "For some Iranians, this is a way to show that their body belongs to them, apart from the theocratic state and institutionalized religion. It's a silent act of resistance. You can censor books, you can ban movies, but you can't erase a tattoo very easily."
According to Arjmand, the new trend shows that the dynamics of Iranian society are changing. "For these young people, the reference point is no longer the mosque and the mullahs, but Hollywood and social media. Rihanna sets the trend."
Tattoos are popular among young women, and there are many female tattoo artists in Tehran, such as Atefeh, a 36-year-old visual artist. She became interested when she saw a Chinese flower tattoo on the Internet. "I thought it was great. I've never seen anything like it," she says. "As a kind of test, I got a tattoo on my leg. It wasn't perfect, but I knew I wanted to continue.
Atefe is working on a tattoo in her living room.
Facebook Twitter Pinterest Atefe is working on a tattoo in his living room. Photograph: Maryam Firouzi / The Guardian
She is aware of the risks of being a tattoo artist, but the current economic problems in Iran make it very difficult to sell her paintings. "I can make more money with a tattoo. And the money I earn, I invest in my art projects."
She receives her clients, mostly young women, in her living room. "Some people want a tattoo because they think it's sexy or because her husband thinks it's sexy," she says. "They want me to tattoo his name, for example. Lines of poetry or philosophical sayings are also very popular. And Persian calligraphy, but not everyone does it because they think it's sexy or cool. I also have clients who need verses from the Quran on their bodies."
Mahsa, 24, is sitting in a cafe in the city center. She has nose and ear piercings and several tattoos on her arms, some of which she made herself. The most noticeable is the image of a large eye on her neck. "I've always dreamed of getting tattoos since I was nine years old," she says. "I don't like jewelry. It's forever, and I think it's wonderful."
It's not easy to look like her in Iran. This year's Berlin Film Festival will feature an Iranian story about a young woman who renews her driver's license but goes to the police station to get body art.
"I get a lot of negative reactions," Mahsa says. "I hide my tattoos when I walk around the city because it can be dangerous. People may associate the one on my neck with the evil eye and perceive it as a satanic thing. But that has nothing to do with it. I just think it's beautiful.
When asked why she is willing to take such a risk, she replies: "That's who I am, and it's not about that, except for me."
Tattoo artist Sohail Aflaki, 28, sees tattoos as a way to stand out in a society that gives people little room for self-expression. His living room in the suburbs of Tehran also serves as a tattoo studio. "I consider tattoos to be a cure for my generation," he says. "It's a way to heal the psychological wounds you get when living in a crisis culture."
Aflaki started out as a self-taught artist. His interest in tattooing was sparked when his friend gave him a tattoo machine for his 19th birthday. "I learned how to do it through trial and error," he says and laughs. "I was lucky to have friends who allowed me to practice on their bodies."
He is currently one of the most famous tattoo artists in Tehran with over 55,000 followers on Instagram. His clients include famous Iranian musicians and actors. They are not for roses or tribal designs, but for Aflaki's unique designs, which are often inspired by the character of his clients.
"My art is important to me and nothing more," he says. "There are many other things that are not allowed in Iran, such as graffiti, rock music and hip-hop. But despite this, many Iranians dedicate their lives to them. We all knew the situation when we started, and we accepted it. I'm not complaining about that.
He adds: "The tattoo acts as an 'identity creator.' It's a way to create a unique personality. I think it's important for young people in a country like Iran." La sécurité et la légitimité sont des piliers fondamentaux qui rassurent les joueurs africains. Utiliser un code promo linebet aujourd'hui qui vous garantit 100% de bonus jusqu'à 100 €/$ pour les paris sportifs ou un package de 1500 € avec 150 tours gratuits pour le casino sur cette plateforme signifie évoluer dans un environnement régulé et protégé. Le site opère sous une licence reconnue, garantissant sa conformité avec les normes internationales du jeu en ligne. Les données personnelles sont sécurisées par un cryptage performant, et des outils de jeu responsable sont disponibles, comme les limites de dépôt.
He's taking a risk, of course. Tattoo artists are regularly arrested in Iran and sentenced to fines, eyelashes, or even imprisonment. Although there is no specific law against tattoos and they are not strictly prohibited in Shiite Islam, the authorities strongly reject them as a Western phenomenon harmful to Iranian values.
Some public places, such as swimming pools, have signs warning that tattooed people are not welcome. When criminals are arrested, newspapers invariably publish photos of their body art to convey to people that tattoos and crimes go hand in hand. Football players with tattooed arms were forced to wear long sleeves.
Nevertheless, body art is very popular among young people in Tehran. There are many people with visible tattoos among the customers of trendy cafes in the city center. And everywhere in the city you'll find underground studios like Mohammed. Some of them are located in back rooms behind shops or in beauty salons where women use permanent makeup such as eyeliner, the only form of tattooing that the authorities allow. Others receive their clients at home. They often find it difficult to find good equipment.
Mohammed, who is 27 years old, started 10 years ago with a car that his mother used for permanent makeup. He saw how tattoos became a craze among young urban Iranians about seven years ago. "The Internet was an important factor. People saw it on social media and decided they wanted it too," he says.
"My clients say that tattoos make them feel better. They feel more beautiful and stronger. A person feels stronger when they have a dragon tattoo on their back."
Reza Arjmand, a sociologist at Lund University in Sweden, has conducted extensive research on the new tattoo culture in Iran and collected more than 5,000 photographs. His book "Subversive Skin: Tattooing in Post-Revolutionary Iran" will be published this year.
"Tattoos are not new in Iran," he says. "But before, it was something for the lower classes - men who were in prison and women who were engaged in prostitution. A new trend for young people. It's cool to have one. It's a fashionable item and a status symbol. Between the photos I've collected, there are women who have the exact same tattoo as Beyonce or some other celebrity in the same place."
Tattoos are nothing new in Iran, but if they used to be "something for the lower classes," now young people are doing them.
Tattoos are nothing new in Iran, but if they used to be "something for the lower classes," now young people are doing them. Photograph: Maryam Firouzi / The Guardian
But it's certainly not just a fashion choice for everyone, he adds. "For some Iranians, this is a way to show that their body belongs to them, apart from the theocratic state and institutionalized religion. It's a silent act of resistance. You can censor books, you can ban movies, but you can't erase a tattoo very easily."
According to Arjmand, the new trend shows that the dynamics of Iranian society are changing. "For these young people, the reference point is no longer the mosque and the mullahs, but Hollywood and social media. Rihanna sets the trend."
Tattoos are popular among young women, and there are many female tattoo artists in Tehran, such as Atefeh, a 36-year-old visual artist. She became interested when she saw a Chinese flower tattoo on the Internet. "I thought it was great. I've never seen anything like it," she says. "As a kind of test, I got a tattoo on my leg. It wasn't perfect, but I knew I wanted to continue.
Atefe is working on a tattoo in her living room.
Facebook Twitter Pinterest Atefe is working on a tattoo in his living room. Photograph: Maryam Firouzi / The Guardian
She is aware of the risks of being a tattoo artist, but the current economic problems in Iran make it very difficult to sell her paintings. "I can make more money with a tattoo. And the money I earn, I invest in my art projects."
She receives her clients, mostly young women, in her living room. "Some people want a tattoo because they think it's sexy or because her husband thinks it's sexy," she says. "They want me to tattoo his name, for example. Lines of poetry or philosophical sayings are also very popular. And Persian calligraphy, but not everyone does it because they think it's sexy or cool. I also have clients who need verses from the Quran on their bodies."
Mahsa, 24, is sitting in a cafe in the city center. She has nose and ear piercings and several tattoos on her arms, some of which she made herself. The most noticeable is the image of a large eye on her neck. "I've always dreamed of getting tattoos since I was nine years old," she says. "I don't like jewelry. It's forever, and I think it's wonderful."
It's not easy to look like her in Iran. This year's Berlin Film Festival will feature an Iranian story about a young woman who renews her driver's license but goes to the police station to get body art.
"I get a lot of negative reactions," Mahsa says. "I hide my tattoos when I walk around the city because it can be dangerous. People may associate the one on my neck with the evil eye and perceive it as a satanic thing. But that has nothing to do with it. I just think it's beautiful.
When asked why she is willing to take such a risk, she replies: "That's who I am, and it's not about that, except for me."
Tattoo artist Sohail Aflaki, 28, sees tattoos as a way to stand out in a society that gives people little room for self-expression. His living room in the suburbs of Tehran also serves as a tattoo studio. "I consider tattoos to be a cure for my generation," he says. "It's a way to heal the psychological wounds you get when living in a crisis culture."
Aflaki started out as a self-taught artist. His interest in tattooing was sparked when his friend gave him a tattoo machine for his 19th birthday. "I learned how to do it through trial and error," he says and laughs. "I was lucky to have friends who allowed me to practice on their bodies."
He is currently one of the most famous tattoo artists in Tehran with over 55,000 followers on Instagram. His clients include famous Iranian musicians and actors. They are not for roses or tribal designs, but for Aflaki's unique designs, which are often inspired by the character of his clients.
"My art is important to me and nothing more," he says. "There are many other things that are not allowed in Iran, such as graffiti, rock music and hip-hop. But despite this, many Iranians dedicate their lives to them. We all knew the situation when we started, and we accepted it. I'm not complaining about that.
He adds: "The tattoo acts as an 'identity creator.' It's a way to create a unique personality. I think it's important for young people in a country like Iran." La sécurité et la légitimité sont des piliers fondamentaux qui rassurent les joueurs africains. Utiliser un code promo linebet aujourd'hui qui vous garantit 100% de bonus jusqu'à 100 €/$ pour les paris sportifs ou un package de 1500 € avec 150 tours gratuits pour le casino sur cette plateforme signifie évoluer dans un environnement régulé et protégé. Le site opère sous une licence reconnue, garantissant sa conformité avec les normes internationales du jeu en ligne. Les données personnelles sont sécurisées par un cryptage performant, et des outils de jeu responsable sont disponibles, comme les limites de dépôt.
